How to make a Texas Prusik self rescue system?

Crossing a glacier seems easy. Still, it’s necessary to be ‘roped up’ in order to avoid any accidents. A fall in a crevasse is a custom event unfortunately. If you ever ended up in a crevasse, there is an easy way to get yourself out of it: the Texas Prusik safety system.

Necessities: about 5,5 meter 6mm accessory cord

Harness Sling

  1. Make a loop in your rope (rope should be equal to your length) by using a double Fishermen’s Bend

2. Make an extra loop by using a figure eight on a bight

The extra loop should be long enough to wind three times around your climbing rope (about 18 cm)

Foot sling

  1. Make a loop (18 cm), in your rope (twice your own length) by using a figure eight on a bight

2. Use a stopper knot at the ends of your rope

3. Use both ends to make two foot loops by using a Fishermans knot

Attach the slings to your climbing rope

  1. Attach the harness sling and footsling to your climbing rope before crossing a glacier by using a Prusik knot. Your foot sling should be the closest to your climbing harness.
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